Few issues encourage stronger emotions at San Franciscans than brunch. Some love nothing greater than to spend a lazy weekend morning face down in a plate of Eggs Benedict. Others would slightly kiss a sea lion than wait an hour in line for overpriced mimosas whereas battling a hangover from the night time earlier than.
Sometimes, I belong to the second camp. Simply give me a to-go breakfast sandwich and spare me the booze-soaked mess. However one explicit brunch restaurant is so ingrained in San Francisco’s DNA that brunch particular person or not, you need to strive it at the least as soon as.
That place is Mamas on Washington Sq.. For greater than 50 years, locals and vacationers alike have lined up underneath the yellow awning on North Seashore for French toast, omelettes and Benedicts.
An outdated menu hangs on the wall inside Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Within the early Fifties, Frances and Michael Sanchez opened a preferred ice cream parlor referred to as the Herbert Sherbet Store on Stockton Avenue. In 1969, they reworked the area right into a breakfast and lunch restaurant. Michael named her Mamas after Frances, the mom of their eight kids.
Mamas has turn into a fast hit, with individuals lining the block for one of many intimate 15 desk eating places. It has constructed a repute for its contemporary, home made substances at a time when this was not but the norm. James Beard and Julia Baby additionally thought-about themselves followers of Mamas.
The Sanchezes went on to open a number of spin-off eating places, together with one in Macys basement in Union Sq.. Each Frances and Michael have since died, and solely the unique Mamas stays, but it surely’s nonetheless run by the Sanchez household at present.
As I handed a bunch practising tai chi in Washington Sq. Park on a sunny Saturday morning, I fought my method by means of the road. At 10:45 there have been already 20 events.
Clients wait in line and order on the door for Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATEFortunately, I used to be mentally ready for this (and bodily ate a snack to keep away from getting upset). In case you attain Mamas on a late weekend morning, you’ll wait at the least half-hour.
Behind me, a bunch of Marina-like stepbrothers bang their fists on their nasty hangovers. Vacationers on the town for that week’s gaming convention contemplated the handwritten whiteboard menu. An aged couple gaped on the line.
I spent the time peering inside the comfy country-style restaurant, slices of carrot cake arrayed temptingly within the show case.
After about 45 minutes, we lastly made it to the entrance door, the place we effectively ordered, paid and took a quantity. It is a do-it-yourself operation, a change within the pandemic period that Mamas has caught with. Fortunately, there have been loads of free tables each inside and outside, and we had been capable of snag a sun-dappled nook desk with snug inexperienced seating.
Diners eat as kitchen workers put together meals inside Mama’s on Washington Sq. in San Francisco on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATEI used to be instantly struck by how cute and cheerful Mamas was inside. With lemony tablecloths, yellow partitions, and an vintage armoire adorned with rooster collectible figurines, she felt like stepping right into a gracious grandmother’s kitchen.
Mamas additionally celebrates its lengthy historical past by means of its decor: circa-1964 menus line the partitions, paying homage to an period when you possibly can get a cup of espresso for 15 cents.
45 minutes in line is nothing to fault however as soon as we had been seated our meals and drinks arrived rapidly by a really pleasant server. One among my brunch mates ordered a banana berry smoothie, which he thought was excellent; the opposite two of us obtained dinner cups of espresso (very common however with limitless refills, which redeemed them).
Mama’s Sampler of French Toast from Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Mama’s Sampler of French Toast from Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Mama’s French Toast Sampler with Banana Nuts, Cinnamon Brioche, and French Toast with Nuts and Cranberries. (Adam Pardee/SFGATE Particular)
We shared the French toast sampler, a professional transfer I might suggest: It allows you to strive three various kinds of breakfast staples ($17.95). The day we went, these three had been banana nuts, cinnamon buns, and cranberry nuts, all topped with a bounty of contemporary berries and bananas and a ramekin of maple syrup.
To my shock, the Banana Walnut French Toast was made with an actual slice of thick Mamas Banana Bread a little bit too candy for my style, however scrumptious nonetheless. The cinnamon brioche was completely tender, however my favourite was the cranberry nut, which had simply sufficient tartness to steadiness out all of the sugar.
Now it is my mission to return and check out all of the flavors of Mamas French toast: kugelhupf (brioche with golden raisins, cinnamon, dates and almonds), chocolate cinnamon and apple pan dore (sourdough baguette with apples in butter sauce lemon).
Dungeness Crab Benedict with spinach at Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Mama’s Christ from Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Left, Dungeness crab benedict with child spinach; on the precise, the “well-known Monte Cristo”. (Adam Pardee/SFGATE Particular)
My starter, nonetheless, wasn’t as spectacular. Out of dedication to San Francisco’s Dungeness crab season and the recognition of the dishes, I ordered the Dungeness crab Benedict with child spinach. Mamas additionally presents a Dungeness crab cake Benedict, however I opted for the previous on the advice of a server.
Longing for a photograph of oozy eggs, I poked my fork into the poached eggs. Sadly, I obtained extra slime than I anticipated. The eggs had been fairly undercooked, with gooey, gelatinous egg whites the place I simply needed runny yolk.
Whereas the egg fiasco positively took me off the plate a bit, the Dungeness crab meat was candy and contemporary tasting. Nonetheless, I discovered the hollandaise sauce a bit over seasoned and the potatoes soggy. I doused the dish with Tapatio to present it a little bit extra oomph, which helped, however as the most costly merchandise on the menu at $31.95, I used to be dissatisfied.
My good friend, then again, cherished his well-known Monte Cristo, a candy and savory sandwich of roasted turkey breast, honey-baked ham, cheddar and Gruyere cheese overwhelmed in egg, grilled like French toast and served with a facet of home made jam. in home ($19.50). I am pescatarian so cannot vouch for it, however my good friend referred to as it decadent and sharp.
Diners eat inside Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
A particular board that includes a choice of breakfast gadgets is displayed as prospects wait in line for Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Mama’s Christ from Mama’s On Washington Sq. in San Francisco, California on March 25, 2023.
Adam Pardee/Particular at SFGATE
Mother is in Washington Sq.. (Adam Pardee/SFGATE Particular)
I could have my gripes concerning the crab benedict, however would I write off Mamas altogether? Completely not. The meals at this neighborhood establishment is nothing groundbreaking, however there is a sure attraction to its rusticity. And whereas the Benedict was a fail, the Cranberry French Toast was successful.
As a brunch hater allergic to jokes, I most likely would not exit of my strategy to wait in that 45-minute queue once more. Nonetheless, Mamas is price visiting at the least as soon as only for the story about her and the homey really feel about her.
Simply do not get hungover.
Mamas in Washington Sq., 1701 Stockton St., San Francisco. Open Tuesday to Friday 8am to 2pm and Saturday to Sunday 8am to 3pm
Extra “Eat like a vacationer”